1. Hwadam (연남 화담) Yeonnam
Step into a quiet hanok where the air smells faintly of toasted sesame and warm broth; the room glows, lacquered wood reflecting candlelike light. Baekkimchi-jjim sends up clean, shrimp-brined steam, while yukjeon lands tender and aromatic, the perilla and roe popping lightly on the tongue. Beloved by locals and easy for travelers to love too, it’s a refined but friendly start to a Hongdae night.
- Order this: Baekkimchi-jjim and yukjeon; pair with makgeolli or a crisp cheongju for balance.