1. Asobo Gwanghwamun
Start beneath Gyeonghuigung with lacquered plates that gleam like moonlight and aromas of warm dashi and charcoal teasing each course. Seats are at the counter so the chef can pace your evening with seasonal Korean produce done kaiseki style, the kind of meal locals share on special nights and savvy visitors quickly add to their must-eat list. Reservation-only and intentionally intimate, it is the gentle, focused start your Gwanghwamun crawl deserves.
- Order this: Seasonal omakase; ask for a sake pairing from the 30-plus labels.