1. Troika (트로이카) Itaewon
A locals’ hideout that travelers quickly adopt, Troika warms you from the first whiff of beet-sweet borscht and the grill’s gentle smoke. Shashlik arrives juicy and glistening, the kind of tenderness that begs for another sip of tart cranberry juice as the pechka’s glow softens the room. Prices are friendly, the mood is cozy, and the rooftop becomes a little party when the breeze is right.
- Order this: Juicy shashlik with the vegetable plate, then borscht with a snowy dollop of sour cream.